Damn Ringer's Poker Blog

A rare strategy post from me, but I hope to start doing this more often. Hopefully that makes the blog a little more worth reading. I’m going to talk about something alot of regulars subconsciously know don’t think through fully.

First thing first, I’m a HUGE advocate of taking extensive notes. The most important thing that a micro/low-stakes regular can start doing is taking notes on the regulars in their games. I always tell my new students this and you’d be shocked (or maybe not) how few new students are taking notes at all. Alot of players don’t know how to take notes or even worse, think they know how to take notes and won’t listen. Are you someone who thinks they know how to take notes?

Here’s a few tell-tale signs that you aren’t doing the notes thing right imo:

• You only take notes on hands that result in a  large pots.
• You only take notes on hands you lose.
• You only take notes on hands you are involved in.
• You don’t include board texture in your notes.
• You don’t color code different types of opponents.

Be honest with yourself and your note taking. You know you take notes? Only you can hold yourself accountable for your note taking. The hardest one of these for a multi-tabling poker player is absolutely note-taking on small pots you aren’t involved in. The key though is not taking notes on every hand so that you have 15 notes on each player. The key is taking important notes that allow you to do what i call “think backwards” from them so you only need 3 or 4 lines of notes.

The way I can define backwards thinking is best displayed in an example. Lets take a hand between CliffordTheBigRedDog (hero, a good 17/13 reg w/ 5% 3b) and Curious George (villain, we have almost no hands on this villain but he’s 12 tabling).

Curious George opens from middle position and we are on the button with AQss. We decide to take the standard line and 3b for value to 10bb. Curious George flats our 3b out of position. Flop comes down A23 rainbow. Villain checks to us, and we c-bet to 14bb (our standard). Villain quickly folds.

That was crazy standard amirite? We had the best hand and our villain likely was holding onto a hand like 99. No need to take a note on that. Obviously, that’s not true. That hand is exactly the kind of hand that we can take a note on and think it backwards in a later situation. Noting that hand will tell us, this villain’s likely range for flatting 3b’s isn’t Ax hands. But the real point here is this note can be applied on flops that don’t look like that. By noting that hand we realize our villain is likely making a mistake of calling 3b’s with speculative hands or going set minding out of position. So now we can really narrow down the range of not only what hands he’s folding/calling with but also know what kind of hands he’s 4b’ing with.

So just from this hand we realize that its likely curious george is calling 3b’s with pocket pairs or hands like KJs so that begs the question what hands is he going to be 4b’ing? The answer is likely a super-polarized range of nut hands (QQ+, AK) and total air. If we know he’s not 4b’ing hands like 99, all of the sudden hands like 88 start looking more like the nuts to 5b jam.

Oh dear did we just infer our 5b shoving value range from a villain’s flatting 3b range? Obviously, we will need more than this one example to have conclusive evidence of our villain’s range here. But I’d say if we see our new regular do this kind of thing more than 3 times we can start assuming these are real ranges for our villain. We learned that from one standard looking hand.

Here’s what my note on that hand would look like for me:

-flat mp against btn 3b; ch/f Axxr

(each player should create their own shorthand for notes, but feel free to steal mine)

From that one line, after I see that type of hand play out a few times. I can tell what my villain’s likely range is and adjust my own value ranges to cater to this specific new regular’s tendencies.

Thinking backwards is a REALLY important stat in a regular. It allows you to take one hem number/hand and assume a vast number things from it. Most really good regulars do this thinking and don’t even realize they do it, but most breakeven regulars don’t even bother or know its there in their hud or in front of them on the tables.

I’ll talk about one more common situation that backwards thinking is really useful.

In this hand, we are playing against a SenseiChen (a regular we have several hundred hands on). He’s a 1ptbb winner and overall plays a pretty decent game. He’s got a high c-bet % but a rather low turn c-bet %.

Villain opens from early position. We have JJ in the cutoff and flat. Everyone else folds. Flop comes down 932. Villain bets and we decide to call. Turn comes an offsuit ten. Villain checks (like we expect him to with all non-value hands) and we decide to bet. Villain calls us quickly. River comes an offsuit K. Villain quickly checks to us again, and we decide to go to showdown thinking there’s not much value in betting and there’s a chance we could have gotten beat on the river. To our surprise, the villain flips over AA and takes the pot down.

Now this hand is another hand we should take a note on for sure. This note will tell us that our villain loves to pot control his medium-strong hands (a trait of many weak regulars). This is an awesome note to have in itself because if we happen to flop a set here, we know to just fire in big barrels on the turn and river against this kind of opponent. Even doing things like overbetting with sets, will pay big dividends with a note like this due to him feeling as though he underrepped his hand. And after a while we can start taking away pots at our will because he will relate the overbets to a flopped set.

The backwards thinking here is when we see our villain double or triple barrel here in the future. What could it mean when he bets twice or three times? He doesn’t bet AA on this board what in the world is he betting with? We can now use this note to think the opposite when he does the opposite. We can remove hands like QQ-AA from his turn betting range and now if you think right, his range is really only hands he is going to fold to a raise or has a set. And as durrr says, “its hard to flop a set”.

That note would look like this:

-opened AA ep; c-bet 9xx rainbow; ch/c Tx; ch’d K

There’s a million different things you can figure out from your opponents game, but spotting these kinds of glaring leaks just become second nature after you practice thinking about what each hand really means for the villain’s range and style. I recommend taking a look through your database at standard hands and say to yourself “This means this range, but what isn’t in that range? and what would he do with that?”. Also remember, players are adjusting to you and your play. So always keep in mind, what the notes your opponents are taking on you and what things they are inferring.

Good luck at the tables, and hopefully you guys enjoyed my attempt at a thoughtful strategy post. Please comment if you’d like more.

This blog is gonna be kind of a different variety but I figured I always get the question of how the heck do you play 16 tables at once and still know what you are doing? It’s a rare blog that I’m going to target at people who aren’t professional poker players. I’m gonna take this post to show you guys how I personally do it. I think its a little different than what alot of online pros do but this works for me.

First thing to address is how the heck do you put 16 windows on your screen? This is actually the thing in which I do most different from other poker professionals. I use an overlapping window method. I stack the windows in such a way that I can always see my cards on any given table if they are there. I may not be able to see the whole table or the actions occuring while i’m not in the hand, but that’s not really necessary since I can always go back and look at hands I missed in the full tilt replayer. If you are going to use the overlap method, you are going to need to a pretty nice display setup on your desktop. I personally use two 24″ monitors for my setup. Here’s what that looks like:

As you can its alot of screen but pretty much completely necessary if you use 2 of the 4 possible methods of playing mass-tables. The other methods pros use are tiling, stacking or cascading. Really quickly here’s the definitions of how those work:

Tiling: No tables overlap, and the action on each table is displayed at all times. Basically this looks like a set of tiles on your bathroom floor but instead of stones its tables. This is usually used if the professional has a 30″ monitor or two 30″ monitors. That usually supplies ample room for tables to spread out. The only reason I don’t personally use this method is because I don’t have the monitor space and don’t like my tables to be super small.

Stacking: Stacking is gaining in popularity recently as the software used with poker programs upgrades. More specifically a program called TableNinja. Stacking is the most difficult of the options for mass tabling in my opinion and it takes a truly genius mind to remember all the actions and play and history each table presents since you aren’t seeing them really ever. The way this method works is you just take 16 windows and place them totally on top of one another. When a table requires you to make an action it pops to the front of the pile so you can address it. After you make that action, another table pops up over that one. Its a great way to play completely independent of results because usually you have no idea how the hand turned out unless it comes back to the top of the pile. TableNinja allows the player to size bets with his mouse so basically he never has to move his hands from the mouse which is key due to the speed of play using this method. The best part about stacking is that you don’t need monitor space to do it. This is the go to method of players using laptops usually. Either this or the next method I’ll talk about.

Cascading: This one is alot like the stacking method but instead of placing them exactly on top of one another they stagger the windows slightly off one another. This allows you to easily select a particular table you wish to look at at any time. It’s useful if you want to see what a players is doing on a particular table, but even this after awhile is VERY similar to stacking.

Here’s a look at what 16-tabling actually looks like!

As you can see there’s little slivers of the 4 underneath tables where when I have cards (or am actually sitting) I can see those cards. TableNinja (the program mentioned earlier) allows me to simply hover my mouse over a table to select it, and I can make my action from there. Its really not as daunting as it may seem as even the most aggressive players in no limit holdem are folding 75% of the time before the flop. This means I only have 4 tables at a time with a hand I’m even interested in.

The next part is obviously acquiring enough skill to beat the game and not just play aces and kings and fold everything else. I always get the statement (not even a question)…. “oh you 16 table so there’s no way you can keep up with your actions on every table.” This is completely false as well. A good 16 tabling poker professional isn’t that robot you are picturing who is just playing the same way on every table. Good 16 tabling professionals know how to use their software and just the overall actions at the table to get the temperature of just about every hand. How can that be you might ask? Using a databasing program is a must.

Let me add this little disclaimer to some who might think perhaps this all seems shady. This is 100% legal and approved on all poker sites except for one. The way this is legal is because its databasing only hands I’ve played, so therefore I’m not gaining information I haven’t “seen”.

Good multi-tabling online professionals use huds (headsup display). This puts numbers on top of the poker tables. These numbers correspond with different things players do. For example here’s the hud I use (or what a hud might look like):

This isn’t a live game shot, but it will do for all purposes and I blocked out my stats simply because I don’t wish for my opponents to get all my information for just reading this blog. As you can see there’s numbers under each player. These are a series of numbers that tell me things about them. They are all basically percentages except for one number which is a ratio telling how aggressive a player is. The first number is what percentage of the time I can expect them to be in a pot. The second number is what percentage of the time I can expect them to raise before the flop. It continues through like that with each number giving me a different piece of information. These number are not necessarily correct but they are correct for the hands I’ve seen with that player in the past. This allows me to make decisions about what their likely hands are based on past information. And ladies and gentleman, that’s what poker really is.

Hopefully that gives you a pretty good look into what guys who play mass tables are doing to allow themselves to do so profitably. That being said, I think I would be perfectly capable of 16 tabling without the HUD (but since everyone uses a HUD, i would be at a mass disadvantage if i didn’t use one). I hope all you people who read this blog about poker and are like “WTF is he talking about” get a little closer to understanding what we are doing here and that we really aren’t just betting on black or red.

WEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE

Alright so this one hit me like a ton of bricks today. I have been playing on full tilt for almost a year and half, and then cake for almost 6 months. The games just keep getting uglier on all the sites. I keep hearing about how the pokerstars tables are still growing and looking reasonable. I am planning to do a transfer by the end of the weekend, moving my entire FTP roll over to stars.
My logic is this. Game selection is better on stars. In the worst case scenario, it can’t be worse than FTP games recently. I use to play on pokerstars back in the day, of when i was pretty terrible at poker. I will leave my cake roll in tact, as i have a hunch the games there will get better in the a month or so. The main reason i moved from pokerstars was because i was losing so much money thanks to having no rakeback. However, pokerstars has fixed that problem with their new vpp system.
So that’s that. I will move back to pokerstars for a change of scenery. Its kinda exciting, as i love changing sites from time to time. Its nice to get a different mix of regulars. that’s my plan. On a side note, if you can do a big transfer to ftp, or know someone who can… please let me know. I’ll likely try to find a big baller to do the transfer with.
I will try to make some waves in the vip system, no supernova elite, but its something new and exciting for sure.

Guys,

I’m trying to get 10 guys who are full ring players that i play/talk with on a semi-regular basis to join up for a Fantasy Football league. I know alot of you aren’t American or remotely knowledgeable in football.

If you are interested in hoppin in this league let me know. I already posted on CR and will give spots away on a first come first serve basis. $50/buyin… so everyone can play. Peace.

-DR

This article is a continuation of Part 1 from a June 3rd, 2008 post.

Last time, I discussed a few game selection and very general concepts of playing PLO (Pot Limit Omaha). After reading that article a few times and receiving feedback, I think that article has a few concepts that people didn’t necessarily think about. I think this article will have some more specific Omaha tips and should therefore be a better article for a FRNLHE (Full Ring No Limit Holdem) player to start to wrap their head around PLO.

You have found the perfect omaha game. You have a table full of deepstacked 1 tablers, and a bankroll of 100 buyins. Now how the heck do you play this game? (and no i’m not going to explain the rules, if you don’t know those please stop reading). Now take the maximum number of FRNLHE tables you play, and cut that in half. That’s the correct number of omaha tables to play. You have so much action/thought at all times, that mass-multitabling is almost impossible. Unlike FRNLHE, there are many many situations that warrant you stopping everything and thinking about that table and bet.

Omaha Preflop:
Let me start this section by saying there are many correct ways to play omaha pre-flop. This happens to be my preferred method at mid-stakes omaha.

Concepts:

Postion is God in PLO – if you don’t know what i mean you soon will (random: just make me think of that old barenaked ladies song)

We want to play hands that give us the best possible way to make the nuts.

It is rather easy to outplay our opponents postflop in position as it is typically difficult to continue out of position without the nuts or a monster draw (which your opponent won’t have most of the time).

Hands we fold:

• Hands Overloaded in one suit – If you have 4 clubs and an AQ45, your hand really loses alot of value unless you are stealing on the button. The optimal number of a suit in your hand is 2. If you have more or less, its bad typically. You are less likely to make your flush draw and therefor you have less opportunities to make a real hand
• Completely Unconnected Garbage – An adage that has stuck with me is the following: If you can’t make at least 2 playable holdem hands out of your omaha hand, your hand is a fold. This has been one of those tips i picked up along the way that I pretty much use all the time. When i’m not sure if i should play a hand, i just default to that rule and actually try to pick 2 hands out i’d like to play in that spot. So for example JT36 is not a playable hand even if double suited (unless from the button in which case its likely a raise).

Hands we open-raise:

• Double Suited Connectors – aka 8s9sTc6c – Hands like these flop amazingly well or amazingly terrible. However alot of the hands we make aren’t going to be the nuts (but they will be close), so we want to put pressure on our opponents and hopefully get few players to the flop.
• Hands that draw to the nuts – These are my favorites. Hands like As9s7c8d which don’t seem like monsters are really amazing hands. You wake up with just silly combo draws on a regular basis when seeing the flops with these kinds of hands. You have a number of straight draws and the nut flush draw in your hand.
• Basically anything that isn’t complete garbage on the button – This is just common sense. Having position alone is usually enough to win the hands, so with that in mind, we take our position unless we have a hand which simply has no chance of flopping well.
• Since position is so important, we are opening pretty much any hands that have 2 playable holdem hands from the CO and Button. We are also c-betting at a headsup pot no matter what and likely check/folding a multi-way pot unless we flop a real hand.

It is so tough play hands out of position in omaha that pretty much raising any cards that aren’t complete rags and c-betting is profitable. Players typically avoid playing out of position postflop without a big hand.

Hands to 3-bet with:

• AAxx – this is kind of a no-brainer but let me bring your brain into this one. Don’t 4-bet AAxx unless you can get 40% of your stack in pre-flop against multi-person fields. You will have no choice but to get it allin on the flop usually. It is sometimes correct to just smooth call a 3-bet with AAxx, there are a few reasons for this. First, it doesn’t define your hand to your opponent completely. Your opponent can flop 2 pair dueces and 4’s on a 24K board after you 4-bet and be VERY sure its good whereas if you put pressure on without giving away AA you get alot of fold equity by trying to get it in on the flop. Also, you can really disguise your hand. If the flop comes Ahigh, you really get alot of spots where you can let your opponent bluff pot on the flop of an Ahigh board because he thinks he’s represnting AAxx. Generally we are trying to get all our money in pre-flop with AAxx but if we can’t get enough of it in to commit ourselves post- we are really giving value away and playing our hand face-up against an opponent with a wide range.
• Sneaky hands. Sneaky hands in position is the place i win most of my money. I define sneaky hands as those which don’t hit the kind of board our opponent thinks our hand would hit from our 3-bet. I love 3-betting hands like 3h5h4d8d or 234s5s. These kinds of hands never are seen coming and still hit a high number of flops. When we flop the nuts on a 256 flop, our opponents usually think we have AAxx due to our 3-bet and think its a great flop for making a play (which typically it is). We also take down alot of pots we don’t hit especially A-high boards. Opponents are so quick to put you on a monster pair that they often just avoid giving any action on an A-high board in a 3-bet pot. So by c-betting alot of boards we don’t hit, our opponents just give up. Make sure you have a hand that can call a 4-bet tho so make sure your hand can play well against AAxx. This leads me to my next point.
• You don’t want to 3-bet a hand that doesn’t play well against AAxx or KKxx. Players make the mistake of raising hands like AK45 or AJT4. I think these are very poor choices for isolating and really look strong to the untrained eye but seem to be the equivalent of KJ in holdem.

That should just about sum-up my pre-flop ideas on PLO. And that will sum up part 2. I realize this one is kind of all over the board, but I wrote it over a few days so i appologize if i left something out. If you have a question or think i’m full of it, please write it in my comments.

I recently had a conversation with an old friend who’s been kinda out of the poker world for a year. He was telling me that one of his friends is very into PLO, and he was trying to convince him why the game was no good. Obviously, i was appauled. PLO bad for you? Hell no. So i’ve decided to write a series about PLO and how to play PLO as a FR nit.

Pot Limit Omaha is the best game online right now, in my opinion. I actually think that one is impossible to argue. There’s more action, more players who don’t have a grasp on the game playing. Honestly, I love Pot Limit omaha so much that I am often tempted to make it my full time game. The problem I find with making PLO my full time game is the swings. I personally don’t like losing more than 5 buyins at a time, and in PLO this can happen so fast you don’t have time to blink.

I use pot limit omaha as an excellent way to mix up my days. I find some days, i just don’t want to play with all the regulars at 2/4. I think its a great way to keep your sanity. If i am having a pretty big losing day, and the next day feel like i’m worth nothing at holdem. (i say next day because i don’t get on the tables later on after a big losing session) But after those kinds of days, i just don’t feel right at the holdem tables. So i often go play 6 tables of PLO.

Here’s the Damn Ringer Rules for Deciding what Pot Limit Omaha to play:

1. Have 100 buyins for the game you want to play. PERIOD. If you are playing at all scared at PLO, you will lose. 100 buyins is a must. I usually play one stake less than my FR NLHE stake. So i play 1/2 PLO, and need 20,000 in my bankroll to do so. Don’t play 0.50/1.00PLO with a bankroll of 5k.
2. Table Select. Table. Select. You don’t have to preach to me about higher stakes having no choice of table selecting. PLO at just about every stake has an amazing number of recreational players. Search out players with full buyins, who aren’t playing more than 2 tables. These are your ATM. These players likely have no idea what PLO is all about, and can be exploited.
3. Regulars. Take the time before sitting at new PLO games, to figure out who the regulars are. There aren’t many. The regulars, however, are usually very seasoned, and untiltable. Untiltable is not the kind of players you want to play in omaha. I can’t tell you how much profit i’ve made off of guys who i’ve tilted in omaha, its like 3 times more than i’ve made tilting players in holdem. You hit a 40/60 draw against their top set, and they will donate another $800 to table cause they are so tilted. Regulars don’t do this. Omaha is one of the easiest games to tilt from, don’t play emotionally sound players who are bankrolled for the game. They are avoidable for the most part, so avoid them. The difference between donkey and regular in PLO isn’t just the difference of skill, but also the difference of tiltability as well. Remember that bad players are far more likely to reload in PLO than in NLHE, because they will feel like they got bad beated far more often, because outplaying someone in omaha looks so different than outplaying someone in PLO, from the untrained eye.
4. Forget about FR PLO. Being the nit that i am, I love the nuts. Its pretty much why I play full ring. I don’t like marginal situations, i like to deal with as few of them as possible. You don’t need to play FR PLO, its BORING. 6-max PLO is the way to go. Play your position. You don’t have to worry about 2-barreling AJ on a KT4 board after the BB called your flop bet. You can play your position and not worry about spots like this. For pot limit omaha being so agressive, you’d be very surprised how much checking there is in the mid-stakes. You will find a comfort at PLO 6-max as a FR nit much like i did. Its a surprisingly easy transition.
5. Datamine. You will find guys who have 70/4 stats. Seriously, you will find alot of them. This goes along with the regulars section, but is different. If you haven’t spent the $55 on Pokertracker Omaha, wtf are you waiting for? Its completely worth it and works with PAHUD. A common thought process with donkeys is ‘i don’t need to raise, i’ll limp and play for the nuts’. Find these players. Your position will dominate them.

That should be all you need to know about finding the right PLO game. Next Part i will write about the actual play of PLO. I’m by no means claiming to be an expert at PLO but i know enough to beat 1/2plo. Its worth taking the time to learn the game. This is the holdem of 2004 on Party Poker. Its still here, if you want to stop grinding your gears at NLHE, take a break in the PLO oasis. Good luck.

Don’t you think there’s a reason all the high stakes games run at PLO nowadays?

I’ve been thinking alot recently about my younger poker days. I wasn’t one of those players who sat down and became instantly successful at high stakes. I have been playing for about 5 years now. I was looking at my old blog today which was when i first started taking poker seriously. I only managed to blog sporadically for about 2 months but its still funny to look at.

http://www.damnringer.blogspot.com/

When i started that blog, i had been playing poker for 4 years already. One year ago i was happy about a $1000 month. Now i feel like i could have had a better month if i make 10k a month. Its amazing. The question really lies in what happened in between then. Well lets go over what i did:

Well I came up with a plan about a year ago (in may 2007 to be exact, when was in between school and my job). I decided i’d start at the lowest level i could fathom playing. I started with a bankroll of $1000 and at $25nl. I said i was going to play a 30 buyin rule and go until i couldn’t go any further. I said I was only really going to play full ring and i was going to learn a game from the ground up. Honestly, 25nl and 50nl were the toughest stakes to conquer. Its tough to come home and try to play 1000 hands and shoot to make $50. It just doesn’t make you feel adequate. I grinded those stakes, truly grinded them for months. I moved up to 100nl with a win rate over 8bb/100 at 50nl. I then moved up to 200nl about 2 months later with a win rate of 7.5bb/100 at 100nl. Whoa, that was quick i thought. All of the sudden i was seriously motivated. I started killing the 200nl game. People started to take notice. I was getting people who wanted to know how the heck i was beat that game for over 6bb/100 and just started at it. Honestly, I wasn’t quite sure and honestly i’m still not quite sure. I am now playing 2/4nl with my roll plenty ready for myself to take another step up using my 30 buyin rule. I’m stopping here though for the moment. 2/4nl was that point where i always thought ‘this is where the real poker starts’ but now i’m beating it for 4bb/100. Well to be completely honest with you, its been real poker the whole time.

Every donkey at one point after taking a bad beats says ‘I wouldn’t take nearly as many bad beats at a higher limit’. If you think, you can’t beat 50nl but can beat 600nl, you are goddamn delusional. The things i’ve taken from each step along the way help me understand everything about the point i’m at. It really is like each level has a skill you must master before you move up. For example, 25nl is all about pre-flop hand selection. 50nl is all about learning position. 100nl is all about learning when it is correct to set-mine and becoming capable of laying down AA postflop. 200nl is a place where value betting gets you to the promiseland. And i’m not necessarily a master of 400nl yet, but i think the answer to the next level is adaptation, restealing pre- and thinner value bets. As your edge becomes less significant, the things you must learn become far more precise. I’ve gone from learning that AJ isn’t a raise from utg to learning that its likely ‘andrew song’ is restealing my isolation bet against a weak fish from the CO, and shoving 99 because i know his range is wide enough that it warrants it. Wow, that’s a hell of a scope. If i could give a piece of advice to a player who was like me at one time, looking up to 400nl grinders and just imagining how it must feel to win and lose $1000 pots on a regular basis, it would be this. Start from the bottom. Start Humbly. You aren’t as good as you think you are. If you are as good as you think you are, it will show in one year.

I always thought I had what it took to make it to the top of online poker. Being a very solid Magic: the gathering player (yeah i just admitted it) in my younger years, i had alot of the concepts instilled in my brain. Anyways, now that i’m sitting where i really strived to be i almost forget what it is like to be a grinder at 25nl again. I am not the same player I was a year ago. I’m not even close.

Sitting on the brink of going pro, i gotta wonder what the next year holds for me in poker. I think the possibilities are endless. As I’ve mentioned before, my goal by the end of this year was to be beating 400nl. I never imagined i’d be beating 400nl and 600nl (over a super small sample size) by April of 2008. I am now setting my goals higher. I want to live off poker. I want to live the dream of being my own boss. I want to feel the struggles, the freedom and hopefully the ultimate victory of playing poker for a living. All that study, thinking and hard work has paid off. Its worth it. It really is.

Sorry if that sounded like a graduation speech but its kinda how i feel at the moment.